As we approach the equator we can feel the weather changing. It is getting warmer and at times very oppressive. Heavy black clouds are starting to build in the sky, sheet lightening can be seen and the occasional thunder heard. We are lucky though as the wind has not dropped out completely yet as we expected it too. Hopefully it will stay with us until we reach our last stop in Indonesia, Nongsa Point Marina on Batam island.
As I write this blog we are sailing along at 4.5-5.0 knots in a gentle easterly breeze and flat calm seas. I am down below cooking dinner, pasta & sauce, an easy meal to cook while sailing along and always some left overs for our night sail if we get peckish.
We are having to keep a proper watch now, by that I mean up on deck looking out as opposed down below reading with the occasional check on deck. We are constantly sailing through FADS, fishing platforms, squid boats and smaller local boats and not all of them are lit. The AIS takes care of the big shipping giving us the position and closest point of approach so we rarely have to worry about them.
Gill nets are also set mid ocean and we have sailed over a few tonight. I don’t think I will ever get used to this as I am so nervous of getting caught up in them as I was the craypots off the WA coast.
On leaving Kalimantan we sailed 2 nights to the island of Belitung. I think so far the prettiest of all the islands with beautiful white sand beaches and large granite boulders scattered along the shoreline. We spent a couple of days here, unfortunately the anchorage was a little rolly but we tried to make the most of it. We went into town one day to do some shopping and the markets were wonderful. Full of the freshest fruit and veggies. Even oranges from Australia! The locals were very colourful too!
The people are friendly and as not may Westerners visit the island we attracted quite an audience where ever we went. I am guessing but this seemed quite a wealthy island compared to others, the fully tarmacked roads, the larger houses with well kept gardens, the way people were dressed, the amount of English spoken.
Another overnight sail took us to the northern end of Bangka Island in time to celebrate my birthday at the resort we had read about. How disappointed we all were when we got there to find not only was there no resort but also no local Warong and at night we could not see one light ashore, very unusual for Indonesia. So Chrissie & Phil took things in hand and invited us ashore for pre lunch swim and drinks followed by lunch onboard Basanti. What could be better, who needs a restaurant anyway when you have a complete bay to yourself! However…..my birthday arrived and we woke up to a very black and stormy sky. It wasn’t long before we were running around shutting hatches and securing stuff on deck as we got hit with 35 kn winds, torrential rain and a good 1 metre swell coming into the bay putting us on a lee shore. Not a good situation to be in but too late to move so we hung in there for 4 hours while it passed over us and prayed the Rocna anchor would hold, which it did.
The swim and drinks ashore were cancelled but once the rain cleared we were taxied over to Basanti where we enjoyed a fine lunch, a few drinks and a delicious Jimmy Buffet Rum Cake cooked by our chief cake baker Phil. It was a great birthday thanks to Chrissie, Phil and Jerry and I even managed a Skype call to Ben
The next day we left Bangka Is behind in the afternoon again flat calm seas, gentle easterly breeze, heading for Linga Island and this is where I started this blog.
Two days later we are in the northern hemisphere having crossed the equator without so much as a bump. We dressed for the occasion and had a tot of rum for King Neptune as we passed over the line that seperates north from south.
Just to our starboard side as we passed over the equator we saw this sand bank. Right there in the middle of nowhere, it was quite weird. Later when looking at my cruising info I see it is listed as an anchorage to stop at and celebrate being on the equator. I suppose it would be ok if the weather was right.
The islands we are sailing through now are all fishing villages with houses on stilts in the water. Fishing platforms litter the coast line and then there are those that have fallen down but not removed so we have to look out for the remains which are just sticks in the ocean!
Everyday now the clouds build up and we have been caught out in a few nasty squalls but the boat and crew so far have handled them well. Today we are anchored amongst a small group of islands which in the middle form a very safe anchorage. We have just enjoyed a rain shower on deck, very refreshing. The water tanks are full again and the boat has finally been washed of the red dust from Dampier and the salt that has been building up over the last few weeks. We decided to stay for a day to rest up and do some research on tides and currents in preparation for our next sail through the Riau Straits and into Nongsa Point Marina. I must say as much as I have enjoyed Indonesia I am really looking forward to tying up in a marina for a short while. Not having to worry about the anchor, shower as much as I like and hopefully a washing machine to get some laundry done!
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