Cycling the Canals in France Day 9 to 11

Day 9 Carcassonne to Roubia 53kms
Another fun day on the canal. There are lots of boats with lots of very happy people on holidays onboard. Many more cyclists to stop and chat too, most of them either off a boat or from a camp site. There are also more locks and cafes to stop at along the way.
The sad part though is that the plane trees that line the canal and really are what make it so beautiful have a canker disease and are being chopped down. It changes the canal scenery dramatically and we are so grateful to be cycling the canal before they are all gone. There is a 20 year replanting programme in place at a cost of Euros 200,000,000 but until the new trees grow that magical feel will be lost.

We have seen some interesting people travelling the canal by different means but this has to be the best. A donkey and 2 men! We did not speak to them but can only presume they were on one of the many pilgrim walks  in the area. The note on the donkey’s hat read “you may take my photo but please give me a piece of bread”


Day 10 Roubia to Colombiers 46kms
The track along the canal is still very rough and both of us are feeling very tired today. There were more deviations off the canal due to the tree chopping. Some we ignored and cycled on quite happily but some we couldn’t and had to join some very busy roads. The wind is also picking up as we get nearer to the Med.

We were cycling through a wine growing region here and saw grapes being picked the old way, manually, by a very happy gang of workers!

We stayed in a Chambres d’hotes which was very nice and have decided while these are a little more expensive they are usually better that Airbnb as we are assured of our own bathroom.

 
Day 11 Colombiers to Beziers  10kms
The wind picked up today quite strong and black clouds threatened all day so we decided to stop in Beziers one stop short of the end of the canal. A little disappointing but also the canal path today has been very narrow, rough and overgrown so the riding has not been so pleasant either.

We went through Point Neuf today which meant nine locks in a row as the canal rises up from the Med. It must take all day for a boat to transit this part.

Beziers is a very old town with tiny cobblestone streets. It was interesting but very dirty and to us it seemed a very poor town with lots of unemployment.  Our accommodation was in a house in the old town. Very narrow, just one room wide. Our bedroom was on the first floor up a tiny narrow staircase and we were surprised to find we had our own bathroom! The room itself was very colourful and comfortable. Our bikes were kept in the kitchen downstairs, which tells us that the  host relies heavily on Airbnb for income as when the bikes were in the kitchen there was not a lot of room to get around!

We slept very well and the next day we were up early and took the train back to Toulouse. We gave the bikes a much needed wash down and the new owners met us as arranged to pick them up and take them back to Valence sur Baise.
We have cycled a total of 477kms. My daily mileage on the blog may not add up to this as I was using Google maps to calculate the mileage but we have since plotted it correctly and 477 is what we have covered. We both enjoyed the trip very much, the smile on our faces at the end of the 11 days shows that and  we would do it all again tomorrow. It was so good to be out touring on bikes.
The accommodation we chose Airbnb and Chambres d’hotes were mostly very comfortable and worked out much cheaper than hotels. Staying with people in their homes is a great way to see local life, learn the language and history of where you are. To have breakfast and sometimes dinner catered for was great, especially after cycling all day. The time of year was perfect, not too hot, not too cold and not too many tourists.
There are a couple of things we would do differently next time. First we would take our own saddles and 2 very good pairs of cycling pants. Second we would give ourselves more time and take a rest day every 4th or 5th day.
We both felt very tired but very fit at the end of the 11 days and very happy with ourselves. This is one adventure I am happy we have done and our thanks to my cycling buddy back home, Carol, for inspiring and encouraging me to do this trip!

Cycling the Canals in France Day 5 to Day 8

 

Day 5 Moissac to St Jory 50kms

Today was a very hard day as the track in this section was closed again but we decided to cycle it anyway along with lots of others. There were many trees down and the canal itself was closed to boats as the the water was littered with branches and debris. At one point we took 2 hrs to do 5kms carrying our bikes up & over, through or around fallen trees. Well it was tiring for Jerry as he had 2 bikes to manoeuvre!

We realised now why we had not seen any boats on the canal for the last 2 days and we would not see any now for another couple of days. That rather takes the fun out of stopping at the locks!

As we neared to Toulouse the path got very busy with joggers and cyclists from the city making it quite an obstacle course in places. we also met a couple from Scarborough, Perth on a cycling holiday.

In St Jory we stayed in an Airbnb and the host was an ex professional cyclist so he and Jerry spent hours talking bikes and we tried a few of his out. One was a new to market electric MTB bike that his wife rode. I had a go on it and I felt like superwoman! But at Euro 4000.00 I don’t think I will be getting one in a hurry! Sylvain had the tools to be able to fix my buckled wheel so it was back to as new again.

Canal side lunch stop, with frequent banana stops along the way.

Day 6 St Jory to Donneville 37kms

Todays ride took us through Toulouse and the track was very busy all the way. Toulouse is the point where the Canal du Garonne links with the Canal du Midi. In all the hustle and bustle we missed the point where they met, so no photos here! We stopped at a cafe and had the plat du jour for lunch which was a big mistake as cycling after a 3 course meal is not a good idea! It was at this point Jerry  & I had a few words as he said I wasn’t keeping up so I sent him on his way while I had a rest and tried to digest the huge lunch!

We also stopped at a bike shop and bought ouselves a gel seat each as we had been told that the track from here gets a little bumpy.

We stayed at a very nice Airbnb, it was a converted farmhouse and the owners had done a magnificent job. It was equal to staying in a 5 star hotel. Although the breakfast was still very “French”!

As there was nowhere to have dinner in this village, big mistake not checking that out before I booked, Jerry set off on his bike and was gone for a good 1 1/2 hrs looking for a shop to buy bread, cheese etc. I lazed by the canal while he burnt off some excess energy!

 

Day 7 & 8 Donneville to Castelnaudary 47kms Castelnaudary to Carcassonne 36kms                  

Had a great couple of days. For a start we are now going downhill! The weather has been good all week but today I wrote in my notes that it was perfect ? Perhaps it is as I get fitter each day I am really enjoying the ride. Or maybe it was the change in canal scenery, still very beautiful, but we are now on single dirt track, lots of tree roots, bumps and ridges and gravel leading up and away from each lock. So the riding is quite challenging for me but I have been following Jerry quite closely and learning how to ride well on this type of track.

We got lost at one point as there is an offshoot to the canal but it was worthwhile as we cycled through an avenue of trees that was just beautiful, they were planted in 1809!

We were starting to see a lot more boats now and the locks have been an interesting break as we watch the good and not so good manoeuvring the boats in and out of canal locks. We had to stifle quite a few laughs at times.

This guy would have been in trouble had Jerry not gone to the rescue. His line was far too short and he soon ran out of arm stretch as the water dropped!

This was a double lock but boats had come infrom both ends! It took the lock keeper quite a bit of time to sort it all out and explain to each boat what to do. It seems that it’s after lunch that all the “interesting” things happen at the locks!

We were also seeing a lot more bird life and also saw a little water creature which looked like a large rat to me but we were told it was a loutre, otter. But I have since been told it was a ragondin and after doing my own research the second name is correct. It is a type of water rat. He was very tame and quite happy to pose for photos.

In Castelnaudary we stayed at a hotel right on the canal. There was a bath in our ensuite and I made good use of that. It was so nice to ease the aching muscles in a hot bath. The it was straight out in search of a well deserved beer and to explore the city. That evening we dined on the traditional dish of the area, Cassoulet. Pork sausage, duck and white bean stew. Followed by creme brulee and washed down with a few glasses of wine. It was quite delicious and just the right meal after a long day cycling. The best thing about cycling all day is you can eat and drink whatever you fancy knowing it will all be burnt off the next day.

At Carcassonne we trekked up the hill to the medieval castle. It looked quite amazing as we approached the town. It is a must see if in the area but quite a tourist trap. We decided to stay up there for dinner as the atmosphere in the main city square was quite lively.

 

 

Cycling the Canals in France Days 1 - 4

We had purchased 2 bikes when we arrived in France as we calculated it a cheaper option than hiring for 2 weeks and we had the idea that we could sell the bikes at the end of our trip. Our total expense of the 2 bikes plus panniers, racks, pump, drink bottles was Euro 450.00 and we sold the bikes minus panniers and bottles for Euro 250.00, not a bad return. We also had the use of the bikes for 5 weeks. So we are happy with the decision to buy and not rent. The Canal du Garonne and the Canal du Midi link the Atlantic Ocean with the Mediterranean Sea and our aim was to cycle as much as we could in the 11 days we had. We drove to Toulouse and dropped off our hire car then made our way to our first Airbnb accommodation for the night. Our hosts Therese & Gerard were keen cyclists and had lots of information to share with us for our cycle along the Canal du Garonne and Canal du Midi. I have chosen to do a day to day account of our trip as this is something we shall want to reflect back on ourselves. Day 1 Toulouse to Marmande the La Reole 22kms Therese & Gerard cycled with us through Toulouse to see us safely to the train station. Something I was very glad of as while Toulouse is a very bike friendly city it is also very busy and for me first time on a fully loaded bike, approx. 25kgs dodging people, bikes and cars I was quite happy to have someone to follow.

At Toulouse station we had to go down an escalator with bike then carry bike up stairs onto the platform. This is where the first mishap occurred! As I struggled up the stairs with my bike an older lady further up the stairs fell back over and came tumbling down luggage in tow and fortunately for her my bike and me stopped her fall. She was ok but my poor bike now had broken front brakes, buckled front wheel and handle bars out of alignment! What a way to start. We put the bikes onto the train, not as easy as it sounds, more steps to go up and impatient train conductors that give you 3 minutes for this. We got off the train at Marmande where Jerry fixed my bike as best as possible and then cycled 22kms on the road to La Reole the start of the Canal du Garonne. I was pretty exhausted by the time we got to our Airbnb, my first thoughts were this is just day 1 ! We stayed in a beautiful old French home, our room and ensuite were very nice and comfortable but the downside was that the owners had 2 dogs and a very old cat and the house did smell of animals! Day 2 La Reole to Damazan 46.5kms The Canal du Garonne runs alongside the River Garonne that feeds into the Atlantic. The canal starts at La Reole. We were up bright and early and had our first French breakfast of croissant, bread and home made preserves, coffee or tea without milk. We made our way through La Reole and found the canal and I was very happy to see a very flat path ahead of me. The hills we had been cycling over the last few weeks had left me very weary! Our first impression of the canal was WOW! We stopped for coffee and chatted to 2 couples from the UK and then later while we were taking a rest and eating some banana, good fuel food, a lady cycling on her own stopped for a chat. Would you believe Anne was from Clevedon and goes to the Blue Flame pub! Her and Jerry had lots to chat about over the next few days as we kept bumping into each other. Today was a very slow ride for Jerry, but he was patient with me. I realised that I was still recovering from the bronchitis I had for the last week in Valence, so I was forced to take it very easy. Tonights accommodation was at a French gite, this one was very basic, the breakfast too, but it was clean and comfortable for one night so all ok. Day 3 Damazan to St Jean Therac 47kms I was feeling a little better on the bike today but with the very basic breakfast and lack of coffee shops along the way it wasn’t long before I felt weary. The storm that hit Valence a week ago had also caused quite a lot of damage to trees on the canal and they had closed sections of the path. This meant lots of detours off the path and onto roads which meant dealing with traffic and those dreaded hills! We cycled across our first aqua duct today on the way into Agen where we stopped for lunch and after a very nice salad, a chocolate éclair and 2 coffees we were both feeling better. Our bottoms were starting to suffer despite wearing padded cycling pants. That night we stayed in a very nice Chambre d’hotes run by Kate an English lady and her French husband Michel. We were greeted with a beer for Jerry and a lovely cup of English tea for me! There were 9 guests staying the night and Michel cooked us a fantastic 3 course dinner with a choice of his favourite wines. Breakfast the next day was a little more substantial as we also had cereal and yoghurt. Day 4 St Jean du Therac to Moissac 31kms It was a short ride today as we were told there was quite a bit to see in Moissac. It was a very pretty town to walk around but all the “tourist” spots were cathedrals and abbeys. We met a couple from Denmark following the canal by campervan with 2 bikes used to explore. As slow as I am we were actually travelling bigger distances than them each day! As we arrived in Moissac there were 5 weddings on the go, some very grand affairs and some not so grand. But we enjoyed watching the parades through town. Our bottoms are getting more sore by the day! We stayed in an Airbnb but we are convinced the owner was a little eccentric! A nice dinner in town that evening overlooking the river. Our French waiter had worked at the Sail & Anchor in Fremantle. Each night we wash out our clothes and Jerry has found a good way to dry them along the way! We have also realised that we need to buy lunch before starting out as it is hard to find a cafe open on the canal at lunchtime.