PENANG–a return visit

27th Oct – 10th Nov
Our first visit to Penang was on our way to Langkawi almost a year ago and it was a very quick visit. We decided to make a return trip there while we had time on our hands  and spend a couple of weeks there as Jerry had to get his suit made  and we thought we could  enjoy Penang properly while we waited.

We checked into Straits Quay Marina rather than anchor at the junk anchorage which is in the middle of Georgetown and all the action. Being at the marina meant we had to take a bus into Georgetown but we could explore the island all day without worrying about the boat dragging which happens quite often at the junk anchorage. I am not quite sure why it is called so other than at change of tide the rubbish that passes the boat is quite sad, or maybe it’s because of what people actually hook up on their anchors from the bottom?

 

 

We soon settled into Straits Quay. Its a great marina, very well run by a retired Scottish Naval Officer, John, who stands no nonsense from anyone and runs a very tight ship. This means that the marina is clean and tidy, the water is scooped each morning to remove any rubbish lurking and believe me in Malaysia there is always plenty of rubbish in the water.  The showers, toilets and laundry are pristine clean and a pleasure to use. Its location is not so convenient as the junk anchorage but Tesco's is 5 mins walk as is the 101 bus into Komtar, the centre of Georgetown. The marina itself has some very nice shops and restaurants and locals and expats often walk the boardwalk admiring all the boats in the marina. So we are asked by management to keep our boats looking tidy at all times!

Our first task here was to get Jerry measured up for his suit. We looked at a few tailors and prices varied from MYR 2800 down to as little as MYR 200 ($1000 – $71) ! We settled on using the DeePee Tailors at Straits Quay as he was highly recommended and close by for fittings. Jerry started at the bottom and worked up. I think this was the least painful way for him ($$$ wise!) His first purchase was socks, something he has not worn since leaving Australia then the shoes. Next we chose the suit and shirt material, decided on style and was measured up by Mr DeePee who we relied heavily on for advise as Jerry has never owned a suit.  Last was the tie.

The suit fits and looks perfect and as much as Jerry has whinged and moaned about a) having to wear a suit, and, b) the expense of something he may only wear once, I can quietly let you all know that he secretly enjoyed all the fuss and bother and was no way going to buy the cheaper version at $70! After all it is his son’s wedding and he wants to look the part. Look at the smile in the second photo.
I also bought my shoes to go with the outfit I bought while home so I am happy too. Penang is really a shoppers paradise with huge shopping malls that mingle in with tiny shops and street stalls selling just about anything you may want or feel the need to have. Being good yachties though we have not filled the boat with designer clothes and shoes or handy bits and pieces that we never end up using, just lots of nice food from Tesco and Cold Storage and a few DVD’s to watch when there is nothing else to do.
 
So many streets to wander and so many things to see  This is just a small selection of things that caught our eye. It all gets very exhausting in the heat and humidity and we soon find ourselves in one of the many large shopping malls seeking a cool drink and a rest in the air-conditioning.

Next on the to do list was a visit to the dentist and that all went very well.  We were very impressed with the surgery the equipment and the efficiency of the staff. We both had our teeth cleaned in no time at all with one dentist and 2 nurses working at the same time. They used equipment I have never seen before and it was all over very quickly. The cost was very good too $35 each, much more affordable than home. Jerry returned the next day for a filling and that was $50!
So while we were doing medical stuff Jerry decided he would get his hearing checked out (just to prove me wrong, I think). I know he is deaf, its called selective deafness, he says its industrial deafness! We were advised to go  to the Loh Guan Lye Specialist hospital not just one of the may hearing clinics around as at the hospital Jerry’s ears would get a thorough check. I thought we would have to make an appointment for another day, but no we were seen straight away by an ENT specialist who had completed his cochlear implant training in Melbourne. He thoroughly examined the ears and a hearing test was done. We chatted away to the Dr who was interested in our travels and he said that he understood exactly why we chose to attend to medical matters while in Penang after working in Melbourne. In Melbourne he only saw 15 patients a day and was orced to take lengthy morning and afternoon tea breaks. Whereas in Penang he sees 100 a day! and he said you don’t have to wait 3 months for an appointment! The whole exercise took about an hour and a half and cost $91.50. Yes, it’s confirmed Jerry has industrial deafness and also finds it harder to hear a women's voice. Apparently it’s to do with pitch? Is this another word for selective? I saw this ad and was rather hoping the Dr would advise he made a purchase as I could do with a new phone. Alas, it’s not to be, I guess I shall just have smile sweetly as I repeat myself yet again!

 

Everyday we took a bus to another part of Penang to see something different or find a particular restaurant. Around Georgetown there is a lot of street art on the walls that tell a story or the history of the area you are in. The buildings are interesting mixing old shophouses with new mega malls. There is an abundance of coffee shops, food stalls, food halls, restaurants serving any kind of food you would like.


We had heard about the duck & rice man who serves the best duck in town and went in search of him. You have to be there early, 12.30, as he sells out quickly. The ducks, rice and sauce are all cooked at home then loaded onto his scooter and brought into town.



Locals start queuing at 12.15 for their lunch or for takeaway. We were first to arrive and enjoyed a cool drink while we waited then we sat back and watched while the “performance” unrolled. How he manages to transport all this on a motorbike I don’t know and the sauce was hot and not a drop spilt. The duck was delicious the sauce even better  and the wait was well worth it.



There are many temples to visit in Penang but we chose only to go to the big one on the hill this time, called Kek Lok Si Temple. It is said to be the largest Buddhist temple in SE Asia, the temple of “supreme bliss”. It sits high on the hill overlooking Penang and is quite impressive. The walk to the top takes you through various smaller temples along the way. Unfortunately my picture does not really show just how big the Big Buddha is. Perched high on the hill overlooking Penang, made of solid bronze, it was quite spectacular.

One day we took the bus to Batu Ferrenghi on the north coast. This is the tourist beach area and where all the big hotels are. Unfortunately we were there in the morning and nothing was open in the street apart from the one coffee bar. There were plenty of food markets and clothes stalls around but I guess they do not open until late afternoon early evening. Tourists here probably enjoy the hotel pool or beach during the day and only venture out at night when its a little cooler.

From there we went onto the butterfly farm which was different and quite pretty, if you like butterflies. I think if I were a tourist looking for somewhere to stay I would choose Georgetown for 4 days and Batu Ferringhi for 3 at the most.

 

It was Halloween while we were there and we were so surprised when we arrived back at Straits Quay one night to find hundreds of excited, noisy children all in Halloween costumes racing around in groups led by a person with a flag and a whistle. They visited every shop in the complex and the poor shop owners had to give each and everyone a treat. Not only must it cost the shop owners a small fortune in lollies but I can only imagine how sick these poor children are in the car on the way home! We didn’t hang around too long, it was total madness but I did get a couple of pictures.



Penang is a great place to visit. It’s full of life from early morning markets to late night shops and bars. It’s all about food, shopping, history and culture.



We had a nice sail back to Langkawi, (the new sails are great), stopping off at Bunting Island overnight. Just as we dropped anchor yet another thunderstorm rolled in but we were nice and snug where we were. We are anchored at Kuah and tomorrow we are off to do a lap of Langkawi and visit the anchorages we haven’t yet been too. Weather permitting of course!