Cycling the Canals in France Days 1 - 4

We had purchased 2 bikes when we arrived in France as we calculated it a cheaper option than hiring for 2 weeks and we had the idea that we could sell the bikes at the end of our trip. Our total expense of the 2 bikes plus panniers, racks, pump, drink bottles was Euro 450.00 and we sold the bikes minus panniers and bottles for Euro 250.00, not a bad return. We also had the use of the bikes for 5 weeks. So we are happy with the decision to buy and not rent. The Canal du Garonne and the Canal du Midi link the Atlantic Ocean with the Mediterranean Sea and our aim was to cycle as much as we could in the 11 days we had. We drove to Toulouse and dropped off our hire car then made our way to our first Airbnb accommodation for the night. Our hosts Therese & Gerard were keen cyclists and had lots of information to share with us for our cycle along the Canal du Garonne and Canal du Midi. I have chosen to do a day to day account of our trip as this is something we shall want to reflect back on ourselves. Day 1 Toulouse to Marmande the La Reole 22kms Therese & Gerard cycled with us through Toulouse to see us safely to the train station. Something I was very glad of as while Toulouse is a very bike friendly city it is also very busy and for me first time on a fully loaded bike, approx. 25kgs dodging people, bikes and cars I was quite happy to have someone to follow.

At Toulouse station we had to go down an escalator with bike then carry bike up stairs onto the platform. This is where the first mishap occurred! As I struggled up the stairs with my bike an older lady further up the stairs fell back over and came tumbling down luggage in tow and fortunately for her my bike and me stopped her fall. She was ok but my poor bike now had broken front brakes, buckled front wheel and handle bars out of alignment! What a way to start. We put the bikes onto the train, not as easy as it sounds, more steps to go up and impatient train conductors that give you 3 minutes for this. We got off the train at Marmande where Jerry fixed my bike as best as possible and then cycled 22kms on the road to La Reole the start of the Canal du Garonne. I was pretty exhausted by the time we got to our Airbnb, my first thoughts were this is just day 1 ! We stayed in a beautiful old French home, our room and ensuite were very nice and comfortable but the downside was that the owners had 2 dogs and a very old cat and the house did smell of animals! Day 2 La Reole to Damazan 46.5kms The Canal du Garonne runs alongside the River Garonne that feeds into the Atlantic. The canal starts at La Reole. We were up bright and early and had our first French breakfast of croissant, bread and home made preserves, coffee or tea without milk. We made our way through La Reole and found the canal and I was very happy to see a very flat path ahead of me. The hills we had been cycling over the last few weeks had left me very weary! Our first impression of the canal was WOW! We stopped for coffee and chatted to 2 couples from the UK and then later while we were taking a rest and eating some banana, good fuel food, a lady cycling on her own stopped for a chat. Would you believe Anne was from Clevedon and goes to the Blue Flame pub! Her and Jerry had lots to chat about over the next few days as we kept bumping into each other. Today was a very slow ride for Jerry, but he was patient with me. I realised that I was still recovering from the bronchitis I had for the last week in Valence, so I was forced to take it very easy. Tonights accommodation was at a French gite, this one was very basic, the breakfast too, but it was clean and comfortable for one night so all ok. Day 3 Damazan to St Jean Therac 47kms I was feeling a little better on the bike today but with the very basic breakfast and lack of coffee shops along the way it wasn’t long before I felt weary. The storm that hit Valence a week ago had also caused quite a lot of damage to trees on the canal and they had closed sections of the path. This meant lots of detours off the path and onto roads which meant dealing with traffic and those dreaded hills! We cycled across our first aqua duct today on the way into Agen where we stopped for lunch and after a very nice salad, a chocolate éclair and 2 coffees we were both feeling better. Our bottoms were starting to suffer despite wearing padded cycling pants. That night we stayed in a very nice Chambre d’hotes run by Kate an English lady and her French husband Michel. We were greeted with a beer for Jerry and a lovely cup of English tea for me! There were 9 guests staying the night and Michel cooked us a fantastic 3 course dinner with a choice of his favourite wines. Breakfast the next day was a little more substantial as we also had cereal and yoghurt. Day 4 St Jean du Therac to Moissac 31kms It was a short ride today as we were told there was quite a bit to see in Moissac. It was a very pretty town to walk around but all the “tourist” spots were cathedrals and abbeys. We met a couple from Denmark following the canal by campervan with 2 bikes used to explore. As slow as I am we were actually travelling bigger distances than them each day! As we arrived in Moissac there were 5 weddings on the go, some very grand affairs and some not so grand. But we enjoyed watching the parades through town. Our bottoms are getting more sore by the day! We stayed in an Airbnb but we are convinced the owner was a little eccentric! A nice dinner in town that evening overlooking the river. Our French waiter had worked at the Sail & Anchor in Fremantle. Each night we wash out our clothes and Jerry has found a good way to dry them along the way! We have also realised that we need to buy lunch before starting out as it is hard to find a cafe open on the canal at lunchtime.