Day 5 Moissac to St Jory 50kms
Today was a very hard day as the track in this section was closed again but we decided to cycle it anyway along with lots of others. There were many trees down and the canal itself was closed to boats as the the water was littered with branches and debris. At one point we took 2 hrs to do 5kms carrying our bikes up & over, through or around fallen trees. Well it was tiring for Jerry as he had 2 bikes to manoeuvre!
We realised now why we had not seen any boats on the canal for the last 2 days and we would not see any now for another couple of days. That rather takes the fun out of stopping at the locks!
As we neared to Toulouse the path got very busy with joggers and cyclists from the city making it quite an obstacle course in places. we also met a couple from Scarborough, Perth on a cycling holiday.
In St Jory we stayed in an Airbnb and the host was an ex professional cyclist so he and Jerry spent hours talking bikes and we tried a few of his out. One was a new to market electric MTB bike that his wife rode. I had a go on it and I felt like superwoman! But at Euro 4000.00 I don’t think I will be getting one in a hurry! Sylvain had the tools to be able to fix my buckled wheel so it was back to as new again.
Canal side lunch stop, with frequent banana stops along the way.
Day 6 St Jory to Donneville 37kms
Todays ride took us through Toulouse and the track was very busy all the way. Toulouse is the point where the Canal du Garonne links with the Canal du Midi. In all the hustle and bustle we missed the point where they met, so no photos here! We stopped at a cafe and had the plat du jour for lunch which was a big mistake as cycling after a 3 course meal is not a good idea! It was at this point Jerry & I had a few words as he said I wasn’t keeping up so I sent him on his way while I had a rest and tried to digest the huge lunch!
We also stopped at a bike shop and bought ouselves a gel seat each as we had been told that the track from here gets a little bumpy.
We stayed at a very nice Airbnb, it was a converted farmhouse and the owners had done a magnificent job. It was equal to staying in a 5 star hotel. Although the breakfast was still very “French”!
As there was nowhere to have dinner in this village, big mistake not checking that out before I booked, Jerry set off on his bike and was gone for a good 1 1/2 hrs looking for a shop to buy bread, cheese etc. I lazed by the canal while he burnt off some excess energy!
Day 7 & 8 Donneville to Castelnaudary 47kms Castelnaudary to Carcassonne 36kms
Had a great couple of days. For a start we are now going downhill! The weather has been good all week but today I wrote in my notes that it was perfect ? Perhaps it is as I get fitter each day I am really enjoying the ride. Or maybe it was the change in canal scenery, still very beautiful, but we are now on single dirt track, lots of tree roots, bumps and ridges and gravel leading up and away from each lock. So the riding is quite challenging for me but I have been following Jerry quite closely and learning how to ride well on this type of track.
We got lost at one point as there is an offshoot to the canal but it was worthwhile as we cycled through an avenue of trees that was just beautiful, they were planted in 1809!
We were starting to see a lot more boats now and the locks have been an interesting break as we watch the good and not so good manoeuvring the boats in and out of canal locks. We had to stifle quite a few laughs at times.
This guy would have been in trouble had Jerry not gone to the rescue. His line was far too short and he soon ran out of arm stretch as the water dropped!
This was a double lock but boats had come infrom both ends! It took the lock keeper quite a bit of time to sort it all out and explain to each boat what to do. It seems that it’s after lunch that all the “interesting” things happen at the locks!
We were also seeing a lot more bird life and also saw a little water creature which looked like a large rat to me but we were told it was a loutre, otter. But I have since been told it was a ragondin and after doing my own research the second name is correct. It is a type of water rat. He was very tame and quite happy to pose for photos.
In Castelnaudary we stayed at a hotel right on the canal. There was a bath in our ensuite and I made good use of that. It was so nice to ease the aching muscles in a hot bath. The it was straight out in search of a well deserved beer and to explore the city. That evening we dined on the traditional dish of the area, Cassoulet. Pork sausage, duck and white bean stew. Followed by creme brulee and washed down with a few glasses of wine. It was quite delicious and just the right meal after a long day cycling. The best thing about cycling all day is you can eat and drink whatever you fancy knowing it will all be burnt off the next day.
At Carcassonne we trekked up the hill to the medieval castle. It looked quite amazing as we approached the town. It is a must see if in the area but quite a tourist trap. We decided to stay up there for dinner as the atmosphere in the main city square was quite lively.
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